Dean Banks Pompadour

Dean Banks is a renowned Scottish chef known for his innovative approach to cuisine and often incorporating local ingredients. He grew up in the quaint village of Arbroath and after honing his skills with the likes of Rick Stein in Cornwall, he returned to Scotland to work in many Michelin-starred restaurants. Dean was one of the three finalists on Masterchef The Professionals in 2018, he then went onto open Haar in St Andrews in 2019, Pompadour at the Waldorf Astoria in 2021, and Dulse in 2022, not forgetting Forager pub in Dollar.

Pompadour:

Set within the iconic Waldorf Astoria but affectionately known to locals as ‘the Caley,’ named after the Caledonian Railway Company who owned the hotel for many years. The stunning A-listed building, built in 1903, is home to Dean Banks Pompadour. Set to the front of the hotel, it allows a stunning view down Princess Street, St John’s church, and of course, Edinburgh Castle. The decor epitomizes elegance with its clean lines and understated sophistication.

A fishing boat faces you upon entry, which serves as a visual and thematic centerpiece. The Pompadour, named after Madame de Pompadour, evokes a sense of elegance and sophistication.

Taking advantage of a 50% savings offer on the tasting menu emailed to us we seized the opportunity to visit again. The menu is presented in a glass tube, a homage to Dean's childhood days on the beach with his mother searching for messages in a bottle. We opted for the matching wines at £120 per person (five glasses). We were informed that people thought the drinks that were previously served were too much, so matched wines wouldn’t start until the sea trout. We ordered a cocktail and a glass of sparkling to keep us going!

We eagerly embarked on our culinary journey with an oyster presented on a

bed of dry ice enhancing the presentation with a sense of theatrical flair. KFQ (Kieran fried quail) followed on a bed of popcorn and a delicate cone filled with cod.

Dean's signature dish of Arbroath smokie presented in a small tin with dashi pearls, apple, radish, and a rye cracker on the side. The combination of the earthy smokiness and the sweetness of the haddock creates a unique and savoury experience.

Wagyu fat brioche, enriched bread made using the fat from Wagyu beef, definitely stole the show. A rich, buttery flavor adds a luxurious, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Accompanying this sublime bread were three butters: miso, wild garlic, and salt-topped natural.

At last, the matching wines started with our cured trout, tomato dashi, grapefruit, and lapsang compressed cucumber intensifying its flavor and taste. The trout overall offered a harmonious blend of savory, sweet, and slightly tangy notes.

Stuffed quail, then monkfish followed.

Because we saved on the tasting menu, we opted for the extra courses of lobster and wagyu steak.

The lobster was sweet and tender. The slightly nutty flavor of the artichoke and the rich savory depth of the dulse butter, with its distinctive taste of the sea, enhanced the flavor profile.

Barbecued lamb completed our savory courses. To finish; Charred honey mango sorbet Poached Yorkshire rhubarb

But no petite four!

This menu was definitely far superior to our previous visit in December 2023. It's hard to tell if this was due to a new chef as Dean seems to keep the identity of his chefs under his wing and it's hard to find out any information about them. We all know about Dan Ashmore and Zack Botherton, but that seems to be where it stops.

Cured trout, grapefruit, tomato dashi and compressed cucumber

Creating a sublime menu definitely involves crafting a dining experience that excites the senses and offers a harmonious blend of flavors, textures, and presentations. This is something I think Dean definitely achieves. However, is it worth the money? Our bill for the evening came to £533 for two people, so not the cheapest of nights out but I truly believe if this is a special occasion, then this is where I would be.

I was disappointed to see Dean on social media offering a heavily discounted version of this meal along with offers on coupon websites, so this makes me wonder does he not believe his experience is worth the full price? I'll let you decide.

Monkfish, mushrooms, dulse, and coriander leaf.

Stuffed quail,

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